I’ve been meaning to review some of Invicta’s watches for a while now, as they have a huge line-up of affordable divers.
Looking around the internet you come across a very mixed bag of positive and negative reviews. Quality control seems to be sub-par, so people often claim to receive watches that are broken out of the box.
But a lot of people absolutely love their Invicta watches, so I decided to give the brand a try, ordering one of their cheapest watches. The Invicta 8932 is generally available for right around $50 so it wasn’t a huge investment to try one out.
A full review will be coming later, but come along as I open the box up and give my initial impressions!
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Inside of the standard Amazon Prime shipping box was this unmarked, bright white cardboard box.
Opening the white box reveals what Invicta calls a ‘gift box’ in their marketing materials. It’s bright yellow and looks pretty nice. If I was giving the 8932 as a gift I’d be sure to keep it in here.
Opening the gift box reveals the Invicta 8932 Pro Diver itself. It sits wrapped around a small pillow and is completely covered in protective plastic, which is why the dial looks dirty in this picture.
Taking the pillow out of the box you get your good first look at the watch. It’s still wrapped in protective shrink wrap, hiding any details of the dial and bracelet. Attached to the bracelet is a branded yellow tag.
The bracelet clasp comes with some extra protection in the form of white paper and blue plastic.
Not impressed with the bracelet at this point. I felt like I was going to break my fingernails trying to get the clasp open. There’s no squeeze lock on this bracelet, just a simple hook of metal that the bracelet snaps closed on.
The exterior of the clasp looks nice enough however, with the Invicta branding engraved into it.
Invicta absolutely covers their watches in their brand name. Here you can see the Invicta engraved into each and every bracelet link.
The oyster style bracelet is of lower quality, loose fitting, clanky, and with hollow end links. It doesn’t feel too bad though and should be completely wearable.
The screw-down case back is simple, with the Invicta logo and model number printed in the middle, and specs printed around the outside.
Another example of the branding everywhere – here it is engraved into the side of the case.
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The dial is minimal and easy to read. The date cyclops offers some decent magnification making the date easy to see. With the mercedes hands it’s easy to see where Invicta took their inspiration from. (Inspiration, homage or blatant rip-off? Only you can decide).
The picture above might fool you into thinking there’s a chapter ring there, but there isn’t. That’s just refraction from the crystal repeating the minute markers on the dial.
The bezel is somewhat hard to grip, lacking any real edging on it. It does turn with a nice click and not much wobble though.
And a wrist shot. I haven’t sized the bracelet yet, as I can’t find my set of jewelers screw drivers at the moment. The bracelet links need a VERY tiny flat head for removal.
The bracelet should be able to be sized for most men’s wrists. Here it is for reference on my 6.75″ wrist.
The Invicta 8932 Pro Diver came with a number of small booklets, a generic instruction booklet that applies to all their watches and warranty information.
A bit of info you should know that is in that stop sign booklet – if for any reason you need to send the watch in for repairs they’re going to charge you $28 for shipping and handling. That’s even if it’s a repair covered under warranty. For a $50 watch I think most people will just throw it in the trash and get a new one.
Setting the time and date are pretty standard. I had a hell of a time pulling the crown out to the first click though. Took a number of tries before I could get it in the date setting position. Side note: even though the 8932 is rated to 200m of water resistance the crown does not screw down. We’ll see how it holds up when I take it for a dive.
Since I couldn’t find my small set of screwdrivers I’ve just taken the bracelet off for now. Note that the hollow end links fall off when you take out the spring bars.
‘James Bond’ style NATO? I don’t think the color really matches, but it’s the only 18mm strap I had lying around. It’ll do for now until I can get the bracelet sized up here soon.
And that’s it for now! Look for a full review here in a few weeks after I’ve taken the 8932 Pro Diver on a few actual dives and see how it holds up.
For now, be sure to also check out my buying guides to the best dive watches for under $100, under $200, and under $500.
4 Comments
Piece of crap.
This gives cheap watches a bad name.
Won’t argue with you there. Still haven’t gotten around to doing a proper review on it, since the watch just doesn’t get any wrist time.
I don’t know about this model, but I bought the model 8926OB automatic on a lark for approx $80. It has the Seiko NH35A 24 jewel automatic movement and I am completely blown away by it’s accuracy of abt +10 sec/day (always prefer an auto to run a little fast as opposed to slow). Yeah, I know it’s a complete knockoff on a Rolex sub but I’m not paying $8k for a watch, even though I do think they’re awesome and iconic.
I own Hamilton, Raymond Weil, Citizen Eco-Drive, vintage Bulova(s) and the Casio MDV-106, but I gotta say, except for the Invicta branding on the side which can’t be seen on the wrist, this is an incredible watch for the money.
I hate the gaudy gargantuan Invictas as much as anyone, but the 8926OB is a fantastic watch!
P.S. Knocked down the polished silver links on the bracelet with 3M Trizact 3000 grit sanding pad so they are brushed like the outer links for a more subdued look. I’m also considering removing the date cyclops because it doesn’t magnify that well and isn’t precisely aligned.I’ve heard of people removing the Invicta sig from the side of the case but that’s too much work and as said, it’s pretty much invisible when on the wrist.
Great review site- thanks! On the Regatta, I don’t think you needed flathead screwdrivers to adjust the bracelet- those tiny screw heads I think you saw were most likely the ends of split pins which needed pushing out in the direction shown on the underside of the links.